Mallory Expedition to Mt. Vinson

MEX book

2011-05-14T16:10:00.003-04:00

For the past few years Alan has been working away at a book about the family's experience on Mt. Everest. Having no expertise in this field, it has been a bit daunting but Alan is not a quitter. The first draft is almost ready and I am very anxious to read it. A friend has offered his sister's expertise in wading through the publishing world.

It appears that everyone in the family is going to have a small section relating to an important personal experience they had on Mt Everest. My part is about my accident and my return home without the rest of my family. It was a very emotional time for me and I hope I can relate those emotions through the written word.

Antarctica photos and stories

2011-02-14T17:23:00.003-05:00

Dan and Adam have been working hard going through the hundreds of photos and mulitple videos they took while in Antarctica. New stories about their experience in Antarctica keep coming up in conversations. It really was a unique adventure. Laura commented the other day that you really have not heard silence or seen untouched wilderness until you have been there. The area was so pristine. The power and beauty of nature is at its best and most extreme. Watch for information about upcoming presentations on our homepage.

What's next?

2011-01-10T07:11:00.004-05:00

The family is always asked, "what's next?" Right now I am not sure anyone knows that answer although the children (now young adults) are talking about finishing the seven summits. For now I think we will all take a break, do some presentations and get on with life. That may not last long however We are all dreamers.

Dan and Adam - heading home

2011-01-05T14:03:00.002-05:00

Tonight, Dan and Adam leave for Canada - a long overnight flight. Alan and Natalie get some of their living space back when all the bags go out the door. Their condo is in a very nice part of Santiago just five minutes from where Alan and Natalie work so they usually come home for lunch. We should be thankful - they work a 45 hour work week here starting at 8 in the morning and ending at 6:30 p.m. They only work a half day on Friday which is nice since everyone leaves the city in the summer (that's now since the seasons are reversed).

Happy New Year

2011-01-04T20:09:00.004-05:00

The family spent New Year's Eve in Pachilemu Chile a small community on the ocean with black sand. To celebrate the New Year, everyone dresses up and goes to the Central area of town to sing, dance and pop champagne at midnight. We were there joining in the festivities.
Everyone is resting now and trying to gain back some of the weight they lost. Dan and Adam are home later this week.
Feliz Ano Nuevo to all.

On Solid Ground

2010-12-30T08:25:00.005-05:00

Our summit day could have not been better. No wind and clear sky and although the temperature was minus 25 C, the sun made it feel much warmer.
More people die going down than up so we were very careful on our descent to High Camp. We arrived 10 1/2 hrs from leaving that morning. We were extremely tired and our feet quite sore with blisters.
The next morning we had to face going down the headwall with full packs and that was one of the more dangerous days. There was more gear to be picked up at Low Camp and loaded onto sleds that we pulled down to Vinson Base Camp.
After 3 flights from Base Camp and about 6,000 kms later we have arrived at Santiago,Chile where all 5 of the family members are now together to rest for a few days before heading back to Canada. It is strange to see colours other than the white expanse of snow and ice and the dark colour of the mtns in Antarctica. It is also stranger to see darkness again having had 24 hrs of bright daylight for the last few weeks...
We are looking forward to seeing friends and family on our return.
DAN

They made it

2010-12-27T20:15:00.002-05:00

I am thrilled, overjoyed and relieved that they made the summit. I wish them a safe trip back to Chile and look forward to hearing all the stories when the family meets in Santiago. Great team work.
MOM

Monday, December 27, 2010 - Mission Accomplished!

2010-12-27T14:17:00.002-05:00

(12:36 EST via satellite phone from Dan)

About a week ago we left Low Camp at 9,000 ft and went up the very steep headwall as well as the rest of the mountain to High Camp at 13,000 ft. We encountered very high winds on the way, blizzard conditions, and spent two nights up there with the winds blowing at 40-60 km per hour. It was -14 degrees Celcius inside the tent in the morning. We got a radio report that conditions were going to get worse and that the wind was going to double and we made the tough decision about going back down to Low Camp where there was less wind – which we did.

We spent three days at Low Camp and got continuous reports of the very high winds at High Camp so we did make the right decision. The tent that we had left at High Camp and that we had used was covered in snow and was demolished.

After the third day, which was Christmas Day, two important things happened. One was not so good and that is that the winds came down to Low Camp and we were faced with winds in the range of 60-70 and 80 km per hour in gusts. Anyone that didn’t have a tent that was secured with snow block walls, they were busy making those block walls.

The other thing that happened, we did get a report that our weather window was improving and that we were expecting some good weather and so on December 26 we headed up to High Camp. We had some beautiful weather. It was supposed to take 6 to 8 hours but we were ready and it took us 4 hours and 20 minutes.

The next morning, December 27, we headed up for our summit bid. At 2:20 pm December 27 we made it to the top of Mount Vinson, the highest point in Antarctica, and for me the seventh summit. The view is absolutely spectacular here and we are looking at a breathtaking...

(Note from Susanne: The last paragraph was dictated by Dan with much emotion in his voice, and unfortunately his transmission was cut off before he could finish, due to the limitations of voice mail.)

South Pole

2010-12-26T13:29:00.004-05:00

The information about the south pole is very interesting. There are 5 south poles.

The Ceremonial south pole is an area near the geographic south pole where the flags of the 12 original Antarctic Treaty Nations surround a metallic sphere on a small barber's pole.
The Geographic south pole is a marker. Since the South Pole sits on a sheet of ice that moves between 10 and 30 meters a year a new marker is put into the ice each year at 90 degrees south.
The Magnetic south pole is a wandering point where the magnetic field lines meet.
The Geomagnetic south pole is similar to the magnetic south pole but I really do not understand the difference.
The Southern pole of inaccessibility is a remote location in Antarctica that is the most challenging to reach. It is a point most distant from the Southern Ocean.

Saturday, December 25, 2010

2010-12-26T10:40:00.001-05:00

(10:00 pm via satellite phone)

Merry Christmas to all!

What mountain climbers need mostly is patience. It was a very good move on our part to move down from High Camp to Low Camp as High Camp has been continuously pounded by high winds over the last few days. It has been quite nice at Low Camp and we built a Christmas tree yesterday out of cylindrical sections of snow, put a Santa hat on top, and sang Christmas carols with some Chinese climbers.

The good news is that we do have a weather window starting tomorrow (Boxing Day) and we plan on moving up at that time, so hopefully we can reach the summit before more bad weather comes in.

We’re hoping for the best.

Dan

Feliz Navidad

2010-12-25T13:10:00.005-05:00

I am spending Christmas with my son Alan and his wife Natalie in Chile. The weather in Santiago is hot about 30 degrees Celcius a lot different temperature that what the rest of the family is experiencing in Antarctica where the temperature at the south pole is minus 25 degrees Celcius. Who knows what the temperature on the mountain is. It looks as if the next few days will be sunny so it should be good climbing weather.
Feliz Navidad!

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

2010-12-23T10:38:00.004-05:00

(10:10 pm via satellite phone from Mount Vinson)

On the evening of December 20th, 2010, we arrived at High Camp (elev. approx. 13,000 ft). The winds were blowing steady at about 30-35 mph, blowing snow and very cold. It continued all night shaking our two small tents even though they were partially protected by a wall of snow blocks. Our site is a small flattish area shrouded by steep snowy mountainsides with occasional rock ridges. Other peaks tower over us.

The conditions did not change all day Tuesday, December 21st. We were limited to our area of movement. Exposed skin will freeze after about 10 seconds in the wind which must create temperatures of about 40 below zero celcius or farenheit (the same). Going to the bathroom outside behind a small block wall is a real treat. Thank heavens for pee bottles, eye shades, and warm clothes.

On Wednesday, December 22nd we received a weather report that the winds would increase to 50-60 mph and temperatures would drop. Our tents could get blown away if it got much stronger and the conditions were expected to worsen for at least two more days. We elected to go down to Low Camp where conditions were safer where we now are. We just cut out some snow blocks and built a wall around us for wind protection. Hopefully in a few days we head back up. Pray for favourable weather.

Dan

Physiological altitude of Mt. Vinson

2010-12-21T09:31:00.005-05:00

Due to the rotation of the earth the atmosphere bulges out at the equator and thins out at the poles. As a result, there is less oxygen available to the body at the poles and the body thinks and reacts as if the altitude is much higher than the same altitude at the equator. Vinson base camp is at an elevation of 2,150m (7,000 ft) but the body feels as if it is at an elevation of 3,000 m (10,000 ft).

Monday, December 20, 2010

2010-12-20T23:21:00.002-05:00

(via satellite phone)

We set off from Low Camp (elev. approx. 7, 000 ft) this afternoon at about 2:00 pm in a clear blue sky day. Because of the intense sun, we wore long sleeved synthetic shirts only for about 40 minutes, then a cold wind came up and we added layers.

We stopped to drink and eat a little at the bottom of the headwall. It is very steep and has one km of fixed ropes that we had to go up with our fully loaded packs. It is 11:25 pm now and I’m in our tent at High Camp completely and utterly exhausted. It’s about 13,000 ft. but it feels like 15,000-16,000 because of the low atmospheric pressure.

The last hour and a half of the climb was a steep snow-covered ice sheet so we were tied together in case someone slipped and we carried our ice axes in a position to do a quick self arrest if needed.

The last one and a half hours was also in a strong cold wind with some blowing snow. I had to stop regularly from lack of oxygen and to warm up my hands and check for frostbite. No part of our skin could be exposed to the wind or it would freeze.

Other than being exhausted, Adam, Laura and I, have no ill effects and feel pretty good. The steep climbing carrying loads is very, very hard on the achilles tendons so we will see how we are tomorrow.

Another well earned rest day tomorrow.

Dan

Call from Low Camp

2010-12-20T10:11:00.002-05:00

I got a rushed call from Dan last night and a cheery hello from Laura. Everyone is well and excited about today's adventure to High Camp

The Route

2010-12-20T09:33:00.004-05:00

Compared to Mt. Everest this climb is happening very quickly. The family flew from Union Glacier by small propeller plane to Mt. Vinson Base Camp at 2,150m (7,000 ft) on the Branscomb Glacier where you get a great view of the summit pyramid of Mt. Vinson and several surrounding peaks. There they did an acclimatization climb, practiced climbing as a team, and reviewed some technical climbing techniques. They followed the gradual slope of the Branscomb Glacier roped together due to crevasse hazards to Low Camp at 2,880 m (9,100 ft). At Low Camp they rested for a day. Today, they left for High Camp at 4,000 m (13,200 ft). To get there they have to traverse the spur at the northern end of the Branscomb Ridge. This involves ascending fixed ropes on some 45 degree slopes of snow, rock and blue ice. This will be a very strenuous and tiring climb. I assume they will rest a day or two at High camp before tackling the final ascent to the top - weather permitting. The route to the summit rises 900 m (3,000 ft) in a short distance. The final climb is on hard snow and ice slopes. I'm holding my breathe.

Sunday December 19, 2010

2010-12-19T23:20:00.002-05:00

(via satellite phone)

The inside tent temperature at 3:00 am was plus 10 degrees Celsius. At 7:00 am today it was -7 degrees Celsius. At 11:00 am today it was -12 degrees Celsius inside the tent. And at noon it was plus 7 degrees Celsius. And at 1:30 today it was 22 degrees Celsius inside the tent. The sun makes a tremendous difference.

Dan

Saturday, December 18, 2010

2010-12-19T23:18:00.001-05:00

(via satellite phone)

Woke up to a bright clear day again. Temperature outside is generally about -15 degrees Celsius unless in the sun and then it feels much warmer. We prepared to organize to head up the mountain. We’re using sleds to put some of our gear on the sled and the balance we’ll be carrying on our backpacks and in this way we can do a single carry to the next camp. The trail up was fairly steep and mostly gradual it went along the edge of some ice falls and some seracs which are big ice walls that could fall down but there was no incident. After 4 ½ hours we arrived at Low Camp. We were all tied together for safety in case somebody fell into a crevasse because we’re climbing on a glacier that is full of crevasses. We had to put up our own tents which we did next to an ice wall to protect ourselves from the strong winds.

We’re planning for a rest day tomorrow.

Dan

Union Glacier Blue-ice Runway

2010-12-19T12:39:00.000-05:00

In the past most flights into Antarctica landed at Patriot Hills. This November a new runway was opened on the Union Glacier 70 km. NW of Patriot Hills. It is a blue ice runway and you land flying into the wind. According to Adventure Network International, Union Glacier blue ice runway "will improve flight reliability and open new frontiers for exploration". The Union Glacier is an active glacier so there are several crevassed areas around the camp. Both safe and unsafe areas are marked. The scenery is spectacular with mountain peaks rising in all directions providing lots of opportunities for hiking, climbing and skiing. The family flew into Union Glacier camp.

Flight to Antarctica

2010-12-19T11:12:00.003-05:00

One of the most dangerous parts of this adventure is flying into and out of Antarctica. Flight time is approx. 4.5 hours from Punta Arenas Chile. Do you remember your geography? The plane flies over:

Tierra Del Fuego, Drake Passage, Antarctic Convergence, Antarctic Circle, Bellingshausen Sea,

Antarctic Peninsula, Ellsworth Mountains, Union Glacier Blue-ice Runway. Tierra Del Fuego (Land of Fire) is separated from the mainland of Chile and Argentina by the Straits of Magellan. It is an archipelago consisting of several islands including Cape Horn. Drake Passage is open water and known for its violent storms. The Antarctic Convergence is an area where cold Antarctic waters meet warmer sub-antarctic waters producing an environment rich in the marine life that forms the base of the food chain for Antarctica's wildlife. The Antarctic Circle, is an imaginary line 66 degrees south. Bellingshausen Sea lies along the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula between Alexander and Turston Island. The Antarctic Peninsula is the northern most part of the mainland of Antarctica and where most of the research stations are located. The Ellsworth Mountains are the highest range of mountains on Antarctica. Near the southern tip of the mountains lies Union Glacier Camp.

A Cold Night of Bright Sunshine

2010-12-18T16:47:00.002-05:00

Friday, December 17, 2010

A cold night sleeping on the Branscomb Glacier but woke up to bright sunshine. Getting 24 hours of daylight as the sun slowly revolves overhead around our camp. Hard to prepare to sleep in bright sunshine even at midnight.

Went on a short climb up our mountain route to acclimatize today and to get some exercise. Tomorrow we head for Low Camp. We are tied into a common rope in case one of us falls into a crevasse. Winds were light and in the sun the temperature was about zero. When the sun is hidden by clouds and the winds pick up, the temperature plummets. They expect the weather to deteriorate later on tomorrow. We are ready!

Dan

(Note from Susanne: You can follow the weather Team Mallory is currently experiencing in Antarctica at this link: http://thistle.org/wx7/)

Antarctic facts

2010-12-17T21:45:00.000-05:00

Antarctica is the world's fifth largest continent measuring 14 million square kilometers (5.4 million square miles)
The ice sheet that covers almost all of Antarctica is the largest body of fresh water on earth containing approx. 91% of the world's ice and 70% of the world's fresh water
If the ice sheet were to melt it would raise the world's oceans approx. 70m (200 ft)
Antarctic is the driest continent on earth with an annual percipitation of less then 3 cm (1 inch) in the interior
Some scientists believe that no rain has fallen in Antarctica's dry valleys in Victoria land for 2 million years
The coldest recorded temperature was on July 21, 1983 at Volstok scientific station Antarctica -89.2 C (-128.6 F)

Greetings from Antarctica!

2010-12-16T21:43:00.001-05:00

Greetings from Antarctica – a spectacular vast expanse of ice with rugged rock mountains.

We received a phone call at 10:00 am this morning that we had 45 minutes to get ready. We left Punta Arenas airport on the Russian Ilyshin aircraft, arriving 4 hours later at the Union Glacier camp. The weather was so good that about two hours later we left on a Twin Otter for our one and a quarter hour flight to Vinson Base Camp where we have our first look at the peak of Mount Vinson.

Tomorrow we start to acclimatize – maybe climb a small mountain.

Wow – what a view!

Dan

Preparing For The Flight to Antarctica

2010-12-16T09:11:00.008-05:00

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Yesterday we attended a pre-flight meeting organized by the outfitter Antarctic Logistics (ANI) in preparation for our expected flight later today. We are waiting for a phone call this morning to find out if the winds are low enough to fly.

Their previous camp on Antarctica was called Patriot Hills but possibly because a number of their tents were blown away they have moved the camp to Union Glacier where it is not expected to be as windy.

Our plane is a Russian made Ilyshin Il-76 aircraft that carries about 60 people. It lands on the cleared blue ice runway near the camp. On our flight will be Mount Vinson climbers but also a few that are planning to ski to the South Pole about 600 km from our camp.

Our flight will take about 4 hours to the camp then another hour and a quarter in a smaller ski plane to the base of Mount Vinson. From Punta Arenas, we will be travelling about 4,000 km into the interior of Antarctica, a continent twice the size of Australia.

We hope for good weather!

Dan Mallory

Laura's Gear is Found!

2010-12-15T08:09:00.008-05:00

Yesterday, early morning, Laura’s gear bag was delivered to our hotel which was a big relief. It was located and shipped in a later flight. We have done some hiking and generally resting. We had a final gear check today and prepare for the gear to be loaded to the plane tomorrow for the flight to Antarctica the following day. We had 60 to 70 km winds the last couple of days which is good preparation for what we expect for when we arrive in Antarctica.

Dan Mallory (via email to Susanne Hemet)

Who owns Antarctica?

2010-12-14T10:24:00.003-05:00

Antarctica is defined as all the ice and land shelves south of 60 degrees S latitude. It is the only continent on earth with no native human population. No country owns Antarctica. Several nations have laid claim to parts of Antarctica as national territory but their claims have not been recognised by other nations. The Antarctic Treaty System or ATS came into force in 1961 and regulates international relations with respect to Antarctica. Twelve nations originally signed the treaty designating Antarctica as a scientific preserve with no military presence or activity other than for scientific research . To date, 47 nations have signed the treaty but only nations carrying out significant scientific research have voting rights. Canada signed the treaty in 1988 but has no decision making powers.

Team Mallory Arrives in Punta Arenas, Chile

2010-12-12T21:54:00.005-05:00

Wow! We left Toronto airport Saturday, December 11 and had a short stop over in New York city, and Santiago, Chile. We finally arrived at Punta Arenas, Chile, Sunday at about 2:30 pm. A long flight! Punta Arena is one of the most southerly cities in the world and the jumping off point for us to Antarctica in a few days. The weather is mostly clear but quite windy. Calling for 68 kph winds tomorrow.

Laura's bag with all her climbing gear did not arrive and we are hoping that it will be sent on the next flight from Santiago Chile.

We will spend the next few days repacking, reviewing for essential gear only, coordinating plans with our outfitter and waiting for our planned departure in a few days.

Dan Mallory

The End of the World

2010-12-12T20:37:00.002-05:00

Punta Arenas is a port and the southern most continental city in the world. It is the access gate to the Southern Region also known as "the end of the world".

Dan and I sailed through the Straits of Magellan from Ushuaia Argentina to Punta Arenas many years ago. On the last night of the voyage the ship's doctor gave everyone seasick pills after dinner and when we returned to our cabin on the third deck above sea level we notice that everything was safely stowed away. We knew we were in for an exciting night and we were not disappointed. We were awakened in the night by waves crashing over the third deck and water pouring in under our door. All our belongings were sliding across the floor and our bed had become a roller coaster. The captain tried three times to navigate a turn into the Pacific Ocean before being successful and when we finally arrived in Punta Arenas a lot of the roof tops were missing from the storm.

On this trip if a good weather window opens the family is given an hours notice before being picked up for the airport for their flight to Patriot Hills in Antarctica. After our sailing adventure in the area I understand why that weather window can't be missed.

Tomorrow is the big day

2010-12-10T19:33:00.003-05:00

Tomorrow December 11, 2010 Dan, Adam and Laura will fly from Toronto to Punta Arenas in Chile. It is a 17 hour overnight flight with two stop overs - one in New York and one in Santiago Chile. The flight will be exhausting. They then have 4 days in Punta Arenas to recheck all their gear and check in with the outfitter. The outfitter has been very specific about what they have to bring on the climb. Luckily they had most of their gear already from the Everest climb. Every mountain has been a different challenge so we will have to see what challenge lies ahead for them on Mt Vinson. Thankfully everyone likes winter.

Laura's update

2010-12-09T22:40:00.002-05:00

Hello, this is Laura.
I thought I would give an update on what I have been up to since the last climb.
Since Everest, I have had lots of things going on in my life, but mostly school.
This past spring, I graduated from the University of Western Ontario and now I am a Registered Nurse. I took a position in the "new grad initiative" that the government offers for new RN graduates at a hospital up north for six months. There I have had the opportunity to work with some great nurses and doctors and develop some new skills while working with other nurses. I was very lucky to be offered a full time position at this hospital starting in February. My plan to climb Mt. Vinson worked out perfectly since I just finished the "new grad" at the end of November and now have two months off to climb and do a bit of travelling. :)
So follow along with the Blog as we journey to another continent and reach for the stars.
Laura

It's happening - Mt. Vinson December 2010

2010-12-05T17:14:00.004-05:00

Welcome. The family has finally decided to finish the 7 summit quest. Dan, Adam and Laura are madly packing and preparing. Susanne our wonderful web designer and myself will be posting blogs to keep you informed of their progress as they ascend the mountain. This is not the most difficult mountain to climb but getting there has some real challenges and it is just as expensive if not more expensive than Mt. Everest. It does not have the same aura as Everest but its isolation and exteme temperatures make it very challenging. Keep tuned.

Mt. Vinson 2010 or 11

2010-02-26T12:20:00.004-05:00

We are starting all over again. We are beginning to prepare for our climb of the last of the seven summits - Mt. Vinson in Antarctica. We have done some puliminary research. Now we just have to make the commitment to do it either this year or next. We shall see.

Speaking in Australia

2009-11-25T07:56:00.001-05:00

Alan has just returned from Australia where he did 6 corporate presentations for his employer Hatch Engineering. I think they were a little hesitant about him speaking because he is so young; but after his first talk no one questioned his speaking ability and the venues were always full to capacity. The praises flooded into head office and they wanted him to do more talks but his schedule was too tight.
On his return home he commented on how helpful and friendly the Aussies were. They arranged for him to enter a 58 km. biking event, hike some trails in the National Forest near Perth and do some scuba diving. It was a busy work/play time. Thanks for inviting him and the gifts it was a great experience.

Family in Peru

2009-11-18T08:15:00.002-05:00

Another speaker at the Rotary Conference was a delightful lady from Peru. She has organized a support group for families of children with disabilities in her country. We seem to have so many social services that we do not think about children being abandoned to live on their own on the streets because they have a physical or mental disability. Her organization supports and educates the parents and searches for appropriate work experiences/jobs for both children and adults with disabilities. Her passion and enthusiasm were contagious so I can see why her program has been so successful but there is always more to do. She invited me to visit her and I think I just might.

Canadians in Afghanistan

2009-11-10T11:03:00.000-05:00

Dan spoke at the Rotary District Conference in Niagara on the Lake recently. A Canadian Military doctor who had done two terms in Afghanstan was another speaker. His presentation was very emotional. He explained the political situation there very well and encouraged everyone to learn as much as possible about what is happening over there. He felt very strongly that Canadians were making a difference and Canada should continue serving in Afghanistan. He painted a very different picture than what we hear in the media. It is hard to imagine being afraid every day of your life.

Alan in Australia

2009-11-03T10:56:00.002-05:00

Alan's company Hatch Engineering has been most supportive. They have provided Alan wiht lots of opportunities. Presently, he is in Australia giving Everest presentations to staff and clients. Naturally he has to do something adventurous while he is there. Since the mountains in Australia are not very high he has decided to go down instead of up. Both he and his brother Adam recently got their scuba license so Alan will be diving around the reefs of Australia.

The Next Chapter in the Family Album

2009-09-15T13:14:00.000-04:00

We started this mountain climbing adventure when the children were in their teens. We wanted to do something as a family before the obligations of their future families took priority. We still have one last mountain to climb but the beginning of the next chapter in the family album was announced earlier this month. Alan is engaged to be married to Natalie next year and we will no longer be 5. We will be 6 and we welcome Natalie into our family with open arms. She has a kind heart, an adventurous spirit, and a love of God. They are a good match and even though it is hard for me to give up my position as the most important woman in my son's life I know it is time.

Thank you

2009-09-09T12:39:00.002-04:00

My mother always told me that it is not a requirement for someone to do something for you. You do not do something for someone to receive anything in return; the satisfaction of helping someone should be reward in itself. She also told me to acknowledge someone's time and efforts to help me by simply saying "thank you."
Today, when you do something for someone they tend not to acknowledge it with those two simple words. In fact, some people make me feel as if they have a right to my time, property and possessions. I don't expect a parade but I do expect acknowledgement. My time and the things I have worked hard to attain are important to me. I give of them freely - a sincere "thank you" is all that I ask in return.
I must abide by my own words so I want to say "thank you" to everyone for continuing to follow our adventures and support us in so many ways. I will keep you posted about our next adventures.

Recent Family Presentation

2009-08-20T09:43:00.002-04:00

We recently did a family presentation in Barrie. Family presentations are rare since it is so hard to co-ordinate everyone these days but I think they are the most enjoyable. Every family member participates and you get a real feeling for what was happening on the mountain and how everyone coped. There are some funny stories and some emotional ones and of course all the fabulous pictures and videos. An old public school friend of mine Catherin and her husband drove up from London to see the presentation which was a pleasant surprise.

Laura on the Radio

2009-08-06T14:06:00.002-04:00

Our Everest Expedition has presented us with many opportunities we might not otherwise have had. Laura in particular has been exposed to lots of media attention. This past week she was asked to co-host the B101 Morning show with Jamie Hall while Tara was on holidays. Laura got to be a radio personality. She got to talk to people who called into the show, learn about all the ins and outs of radio and promote our upcoming family presentation on August 13, 2009 at the Barrie Country Club.
Jamie is always lots of fun. He and Tara really promote what is happening in Simcoe Country. They have a very positive attitude and are always friendly and encouraging. Thanks to both Jamie and Tara for supporting our family and for the great job they do on the air promoting local events and talent.

Mountain vs Massif

2009-07-28T11:56:00.004-04:00

I always thought mountain and massif were interchangeable words but when doing some research I discovered that I was wrong. According to Webster a massif is "an elevated mass, usually mountainous with a number of peaks rising from it / a large portion of the earth's crust which has shifted as a block with out internal folding or faulting etc." In other words, it is a compact group of connected mountains that moves as one geological unit. Mt. Vinson is the tallest peak in the Vinson Massif which is part of the Ellsworth mountains of western Antarctica . At a height of 5,142m (16,860 ft.) it is the last of the seven summits which the Mallory family hopes to climb.

Going Down

2009-07-19T11:47:00.002-04:00

My children have been to the top of the world and everyone asks what is next. The boys have decided to reverse direction and go down instead of up. They want to explore the ocean depths and both have just recently taken their scuba certification. Both Dan and I are certified so Laura just has to find the time to get her certification and we can be off on an underwater adventure in the sunny south.

On Line Diary

2009-07-12T11:36:00.005-04:00

I never thought of it until today but writing a blog is a bit like an on line diary without the lock and key. As a child I had a private diary. I would write my personal thoughts in it - those secrets that seem ever so important at the time. Where the dairy is now and why I stopped putting entries into it I do not know.
Now with the blog, I am not writing down my secrets but am letting the world (or the two people who read this) know some of my inner thoughts and feelings and learn about our family adventures.

Sleeping under the stars

2009-07-07T13:09:00.002-04:00

It is July according to the calendar but the weather does not seem to be co-operating. We expect hot muggy evenings in July but lately the evenings have been cool and breezy. The big advantage to that is that the mosquitoes are few and therefore if you are willing to chance no rain you can sleep under the stars. It is my plan to sleep on the trampoline with the dog tonight at the cottage under an almost full moon. Hopefull T-dog will not decides to walk/bounce on the trampoline or do some night wandering. I am hoping for shooting stars streaking across a clear evening sky, sounds of night creatures and the lapping of the waves against the beach. Pray for good weather.

My nephew Justin

2009-06-30T13:48:00.002-04:00

This past weekend, the Mallorys had a family gathering at the cottage to celebrate my nephew Justin's graduation from college as a Paramedic. The theme for the day was medical games and there were two teams. To begin we had to come up with a team name and team cheer. Our name was The Heart Attackers and the other team was Epinepherine Rush. We had a rap cheer which was a big hit. It was raining but weather has never stopped a Mallory.
For the first game we had to throw balls into a long red tube while blindfolded. The balls represented medication and the red tube was a vein. A seeing person directed you but I am sure our patient would have died. The next game was an example of team work. All team members except the caller were blindfolded and held hands. The caller then yelled out directions and the teams raced around an obstacle course. Everyone then moved indoors to eat nibbles and do a medical crossword. Having a science and medical laboratory background I thought it would be easy but I guess I have been out of the field for too long. Abbreviations were the most difficult. Dinner was chili and sausage with salads followed by a really nicely designed cake and ice cream. Justin's mom treated us to a powerpoint presentation of Justin growing up. He loves ice and rock climbing and there were some fabulous pictures of his various trips and adventures.
Justin leaves for the army on Monday. He will be in training for several months before being shipped overseas. We are proud of him and pray that he returns safely home.

Kayaking under the full moon

2009-06-23T04:00:00.000-04:00

A few weeks ago I decided I needed to do something new for the summer so I signed up for a moonlight kayak on Georgian Bay. I had done some sea kayaking years ago in the Baha but that was when the kids were very young.
I travelled to Snug Harbour on Georgian Bay and met my fellow kayakers 6 strangers about to go on an adventure together. I was paired with Lindsay. We headed out towards the east with the wind in our faces and me struggling to keep the boat on a straight course. I thought we should be singing camp songs as we paddled along but no one else was inclined so I hummed away to myself. After about a half hour we turned to the west and watched a breathtaking sunset sink into the horizon. The wind had died down and we silently slid through the water in silence. It was time to live in the moment, be thankful for small blessings and enjoy being alive. The moon slowly rose behind us and the few clouds that had been in the sky disappeared. The stars twinkled overhead. We paddled past Snug Harbour and turned into a bay. At the furthest end of the bay an opening appeared to the east as if by magic and we followed the path of the moon on the water through a small channel back to Snug Harbour. The next day I went out and bought my own kayak, paddle and life jacket - in pink to discourage borrowing.

Making use of opportunities

2009-06-15T15:42:00.000-04:00

Sometimes opportunities only present them selves once. I have learnt from experience that life can pass you by unless you jump in at the last minute. To that end, this weekend I was given the opportunity to learn how to drive an old dump truck. Not something I would normally embrass but who knew when that opportunity might present itself again. I am not particularly good at driving a standard car so a standard dump truck with extra levers was going to be a challenge. My son, Adam, was very patient with me and stayed with me while I set up my routine for dumping dirt on a road. In the end, it was fun to sit up high and bounce along the road. I mastered all the important levers and even learnt how to start the fussy engine. People say that trying new things keeps your body and mind youthful. What's next?

Updated website

2009-06-11T18:09:00.003-04:00

I spent the morning with our webdesigner updating the website. We have added a few new things to promote our speaking engagements, deleted a few things that were old news and started a section on our next great adventure Mt. Vinson in Antarctica. I will be doing some research over the summer and adding to the Mt. Vinson section. Today, I learnt that Mt. Vinson was first summited in 1966 - not the long ago.

Do televison and movies desensitize people?

2009-06-08T20:04:00.000-04:00

I know there has been arguments against television and movies for years. There have been lots of books written about it. We didn't have a television because both Dan and I were mesmerized by it. If we started watching something we were there for the evening and did not get anything else done. It was a time waster and we did not want our children to waste their childhood. As for the argument that it desensitized people I think that is true or at least it was for one of our children. I remember taking Adam to see Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs when he was about 8 and we had to leave the theatre. He always asked to be excused from movies at school until grade 3. In their teen years a friend gave us an old black and white television but it was never used much. Now, there is a television of sorts in the unfinished part of the basement of the house which is rarely watched. There is no television at the cottage and hopefully there never will be. We do watch videos.
I have disciplined myself to leave after the first 10 minutes if it is a junk movie so it better catch my attention early. BBC and nature videos are favourites.

News from Mt. Everest

2009-06-06T15:51:00.000-04:00

A friend of mine from last year, has just returned from summitting Mt. Everest. He made some interested comments about the mountain in his last e-mail which I will share with my readers (I am still a bit skeptical that there are any readers now but I can always hope and I enjoy posting the blogs). Dale is a professor in the States who has climbed several mountains himself and with some of his students. I think he does studies related to physical fitness and high altitude. He commented in his last e-mail that climbing to the summit of Mt. Everest was a lot harder and more technical than he anticipated. He also said that he was surprised the there were not more deaths on the mountain. He was in Base Camp and saw the avalanche that killed a Sherpa in the Khumbu Icefall this year.

2009 - 5 death's on Everest

2009-06-02T19:36:00.002-04:00

The latest death on Mt. Everest is a 29 year old Canadian from Calgary who summited without oxygen and died of hypothermia during his descent according to Everest News. The mountain has taken 5 lives this year. My condolences to all the families.

I am sure when people hear about a death on Everest they really wonder why people climb it. I do not really have an answer to that. Many years ago, George Mallory was asked "Why do you climb" and he replied, "If you have to ask the question you will not understand the answer". I think his answer is very true. I do not think i could explain why we climb. I think we look at things as an opportunity and a challenge. You never want to look back at life and wish you had done something and now it is too late.

On a happier note, a hiking companion of mine from 2008 successfully summited Mt. Everest this year. I am anxious to hear his stories when he returns to the U.S. Congratulations Dale Wagner on your safe ascent and descent.

Laura's anniversary comments

2009-05-28T18:16:00.003-04:00

A year ago on May 27, 2008, the entire family was on pins and needles wondering where Laura was and if she was alive and safe. She lost radio contact with everyone when the battteries in her Sherpa's radio died. For over 12 hours everyone wondered and waited. The most anxious moments in a parent's life. Here are Laura's thoughts a year later.

Laura: “It feels really good to be the youngest Canadian female to make it to the top of the world. One of the best things that has come out of this opportunity is the chance to inspire fellow young people, and other women. I don’t think it has really changed my life at all, but it has changed the impact I am able to have on others and that is the greatest reward.”

First Anniversary Quotes

2009-05-26T15:35:00.002-04:00

A year ago today, Dan, Adam & Alan stood on the top of the world. What an extraordinary year it has been: a year of personal growth, family and friends; a year of presentations, interviews and blogs. We hope we have inspired, encouraged and motivated people to make their dreams real. Following are quotes from the summiters.

Dan: "The height of Everest has only been exceeded by the high that we experienced from all the attention and well wishes over the past year."
Adam: "Following this year's summit attempts has rekindled vivid memories of our expedition. It is time to start to dream again."
Alan: "A year seems like a long time but whenever I talk about our summit day my heart starts to pound and it all seems like it was just yesterday."

Keep dreaming!!!

Advantages of a Small Cottage

2009-05-26T11:03:00.001-04:00

In 1982, when our first son Adam was born, Dan and I built a small one room sleeper cottage on the lake where he spent summers as a child with his brothers and sisters. Almost every weekend throughout the year when the children lived at home we ventured to the cottage. Even now that they are adults, the cottage has an allure. In fact, Laura is living with a friend and the dog at the cottage now and working for the summer nearby.
The cottage is 12’ x 16’ and it has been the source of our family’s enjoyment for many years. Everyone questions how we ever lived in such a small space for so long but doing so has had its advantages. The small size of the cottage meant that most of the time people were outside enjoying nature and getting lots of exercise. It also meant that going to the cottage was a bit of a camping experience both summer and winter. All our children can make a meal over an open fire even in winter. They know how to stay warm, how to cool off, and how to find their way around in the bush. They have built something new each year to entertain themselves – tree forts, rope swings, ski jumps, bicycle jumps, a hot tub, log buildings, etc. (maybe that is why both Adam and Alan decided to become engineers). In hind sight, I think having a small cottage helped everyone prepare for their Mt. Everest adventure.
Now with some hesitation, we are preparing to build a bigger cottage in preparation for an extended family someday. I have to keep reminding myself that it is a cottage and it should be rustic. The important part of cottage life is the sharing of experiences not the building.

1924 Mt. Everest postcards

2009-05-19T21:10:00.003-04:00

Climbing of Mt. Everest is a huge financial undertaking. Every climber hopes to recoup at least some of his or her investment after the climb through lectures, films, pictures, advertising etc. To do this you need to capture public attention before, during, and after the climb. In 1924, before the age of television and the Internet it was hard to keep the public's attention focused on people climbing Mt. Everest. To solve this problem, Captain John Noel, the expedition photographer, came up with a unique idea for the time. He publicised the expedition by advertising in a daily newspaper that he would send a unique expedition postcard from Mt. Everest's Tibet Base camp to anyone who sent in their name and address. There was an overwhelming response to his ad and thousands of postcards were sent from Base camp back to England. At the bottom of the postcard he advertised the film he would be producing about the climb - Noel's way of recouping some money.

Living without a television

2009-05-06T19:47:00.003-04:00

In some ways our family is unique. The children grew up without a television in the house. That meant that we played a lot of games and spent a lot of time outdoors. I seemed to be entertaining the neighbourhood for many years. All the children gathered at our house after school to bake, play hide and seek, run races and make crafts.
We spent the summer at the cottage playing in a huge sandbox - 8 ft. x 8 ft., swimming in the lake and cooking over an open fire. We picked wild strawberries and blueberries to make fresh pies, kneeboarded and skied 2 or 3 times a day and built a tree fort in almost every tree. Friends were invited up. It was like summer camp at the Mallorys.

Getting fit

2009-04-26T14:05:00.001-04:00

I was told I could remove my cast the other day; my fracture has healed. Now I have to work on my mobility. My ankle joint has stiffened up from having the cast on for 2 months. Naturally because of my age, everyone is concerned about my bone density. Personally, I do not think I am a very good candidate for osteoporosis but I will have a bone density done before my next medical just to make sure there isn't something genetic that I do not know about. Did you know that becoming unfit takes much much less time than becoming fit? Discouraging I know.
I have started back slowly going to aquafit at the pool and I going to physio and laser therapy. I hope to start biking shortly. To stay young means moderate exercise for an hour 6 days a week. For me, I find it best to schedule that into my day just like an appointment and I need to attend classes. Having other people sweat along with me is motivational. Dan who is more competitive likes to sign up for races. That forces him to exercise to prepare for the race.
Most of the family hopes to run a marathon this fall. Too much pounding for my knees and ankles but I wish them luck. I will be on the bike clocking their progress.

2009 Mt. Everest climbers

2009-04-22T13:26:00.001-04:00

There seem to be fewer climbers on Mt. Everest this year, probably because of the ecomony; however, I have been checking the Summit Climb website because one of my companions, Dale, from last year is making an attempt to summit this year and another fellow climber, Stefano, is climbing Cho oyu. For my family Everest almost seems like a dream now. Laura and Adam did mention the other day that they were not very interested in going camping this summer though. Memories of living in a tent on a mountain for 2 months came flooding back I think.

First on Everest-Explore Magazine

2009-04-20T19:01:00.002-04:00

Almost a year after my family summited Mt. Everest people and the media are still interested in our story. In the May edition of Explore Magazine the Mallory Expedition is the cover story and inside you can see pictures of the climb and read all about the Mallory family's adventures on Mt. Everest. There are things in that article that even I was not aware of. Laura was much sicker on the mountain than any of us realized. I guess Kate Barker - the author - knows the right questions to ask. If you get an opportunity pick up the magazine. For the outdoor enthusiast there are lots of great articles besides the Mallory story.

Easter with the Mallorys

2009-04-19T13:08:00.002-04:00

Almost all holidays are spent with the Mallory clan gathering at the cottage for a day of fellowship, food and games. Easter is a highlight of course because there are always lots of treats. Everyone gets some chocolate from Laura Secord or a specialty chocolate store. We always have an Easter egg hunt. I guess we are all kids at heart. A few years ago, I started hiding money instead of chocolate eggs which seems to have rekindled everyone's interest in the hunt. I go to the bank and get rolls or loonies, quarters and dimes and hide the money around the house or at the cottage. Months later someone may find money in a shoe or a pocket which is an added bonus. We also try to do a craft and have an outdoor activity. We have painted lots of Easter eggs, made Easter bonnets, cooked special cookies and made bird purses over the years. We have done orienteering egg hunts, blindfolded egg hunts, scavenger hunts, and had races. Old and young join in the fun and we now have extended family friends who always like to join us over the holiday. A special prayer of thanks and a hearty meal ends the day.

Maple Syrup - like the pioneers

2009-04-07T11:34:00.000-04:00

Every other year, the extended Mallory Clan head off into the bush to tap and collect maple sap to make maple syrup. We do it the old fashioned way where we tap the trees and hang the buckets. When the sap is running everyone is needed to help collect the buckets and pour the sap into the big plastic barrels which we haul in a snow boat behind the snowmobile to the fire. We slowly boil the sap in a huge cast iron kettle for hours. Dan tests to make sure the syrup is ready by tilting a spoon and seeing if the syrup has a tail when it falls to the ground. Then it is panic time and all hands are required to pour the syrup from the kettle through felt cloth and into the bottles and tins. We tap about 40 trees since it takes 40 litres of sap to make one litre of syrup. As a reward, an outdoor breakfast celebration is usually planned with sausage, pancakes, eggs and lots of maple syrup.

Adam's strength

2009-03-30T12:12:00.003-04:00

Adam is the strong, quiet person in the family. When he talks everyone listens because you know he has thought through what he is going to say and it is important. He gets right to the point and doesn't say anything more than is necessary. He is a patient instructor who is constantly assisting the computer semi-literate (his dad & mom) in the family.
Adam did his first presentation on his own recently where his peers packed the conference room at his work. It was a positive experience for Adam with lots of congratulations and high fives afterwards. Adam considered that a stepping stone. He wants to do more family presentations where he presents with another family member.

Adam's real strength lies behind the scenes with all the technical issues that go along with doing a presentation. He has devised and implemented ways to improve all the presentations. He was the main videographer on the mountain. Having a computer geek and electrical engineer in the family really helps when problems arise on presentation day.

Dan's enthusiasm

2009-03-23T11:44:00.006-04:00

Over the years, Dan has given slide shows and power point presentations of our various adventures to family and friends who love to hear his stories and see our pictures. His bird-watching hobby has taken the two of us to many remote areas of the world to catch a glimpse of a rare and magnificent bird. His voice radiates his enthusiasm for adventure and nature.

Dan is a modest soft spoken presenter who really enjoys sharing the family adventures. For him telling the story of losing contact with Laura on Mt. Everest for over 6 hours is still very emotional. The feeling of helplessness - wondering and waiting were the worst hours of Dan's life. Thankfully, everyone returned safely home.

Alan's sense of humour

2009-03-16T11:54:00.005-04:00

During university Alan attended Toastmasters where he honed his presentation skills. When we decide to start to do presentations he was eager to begin and developed the first family presentation for Hatch Engineering in Mississauga.

Alan is an active, expressive presenter who likes to use a lapel mic so he can move about. He connects immediately with his audience whether they be corporate executives, seniors or youth groups and seems to naturally know when to add a bit of humour to the presentation.

Laura's bubbly personality

2009-03-09T11:40:00.003-04:00

We now have four people in the family who are actively inspiring people to make their dreams real through our presentations. Each person has developed their own presentation and has their own presentation style.

Laura is a very confident young lady with a bubbly personality. She has presented with the whole family, her brother Alan and on her own. She continues to grow in poise and confidence. She will be presenting to several high schools in late April. An inspiration to youth and young women in particular, the story of her summit day is a story of drama, courage, determination and success.

Special Christmas Hats

2009-03-06T10:50:00.014-05:00

At Christmas in 2007, Dan's sister's family gave us each a special gift. What could possibly be inside the colourful gift bags? On the count of three, everyone threw their tissue paper into the air and whoops of laughter and delight could be heard around the Christmas tree as we all donned a special peaked hat. Nancy, Rob, Ethan & Kelsey had given each of us a hat with the name of a mountain we had summited and a flag of that country on it. The mountains were one of the famous seven peaks - the highest mountain on each of the seven continents.

Alan - Mt. McKinley/Denali - North America
Laura - Mt. Elbrus - Europe
Adam - Mt. Aconcagua - South America
Barbara - Mt. Kilimanjaro - Africa
Dan - Mt. Everest - Asia

Dan got a hat of Mt. Everest because that was his next goal. He had already started planning the trip and being a positive family everyone was convinced he would summit. On a gear shopping trip, I found some more Mt. Everest hats and gave Adam, Alan & Laura each one at the airport on their return from Nepal after their successful summit.

Life and Death Gear

2009-02-28T12:32:00.007-05:00

We had some gear from previous climbs but we did not have enough gear for 5 people. We also wanted to make sure that we had the best of everything - the weather is severe and very unpredictable on Mt. Everest. We all wanted to come home alive and with all our appendages. We did a lot of research. Dan flew to Ohio and drove to a little town called Granville to the Everest Gear Store to try on and buy Millet One Sport Everest boots for himself and the boys (luckily they all wear the same size). I took a couple of days with each of the kids to go gear shopping at Sojourn in Barrie and MEC and Europe Bound in Toronto. We also ordered things through the North Face catalogue, and various on line stores in the U.S. We had been told that Nepal had cheaper gear but a lot of the items were knock offs. This information was quickly confirmed when Alan was trying on a pair of down pants in Kathmandu that had a North Face label on one leg and a Mountain Hardwear label on the other leg.

A year ago - the lists

2009-02-28T11:47:00.005-05:00

A year ago, five people were madly preparing to leave for Nepal in a month. Alan had gotten permission from his new employer to take a two and a half month leave of absence, and Adam and Laura had gotten permission from their university professors to write their final exams some before and some after their climb. Dan was trying to make sure everything would run smoothly at the office and I was making up lists and checking them twice. There was a personal gear list, a medication list, a house list, a dog list, a food list, a pre-pay list, a cancel list, a photocopy list, a bank list, a document list, an outfitter list, a question list, a phone list, an appointment list, a today list, a tomorrow list, and the lists went on and on. Everyone had a room in the house to put their gear and the dining room was the food room. We were told that Nepal did not have a good supply of energy snack foods so I was going to take over a 20 kg. bag just of food.

Did the university make us more daring?

2009-02-27T16:47:00.003-05:00

Alan wrote an excellent summary of our climb and submitted it to the Queen's alumni office shortly after we returned from our climb. It was published in the latest Queen's Alumni Review along with some photos. Read it if you get the opportunity. He hit on all the highlights.
Four of the five Mallorys are graduates of Queen's University in Kingston -Daniel, Barbara, Adam and Alan. Did the university contribute to our desire to push the limits? Maybe it did and maybe it didn't. Being purple, slamming, skydiving, dancing on tables in Grant Hall and hopping around residence in a bunny outfit - maybe that is daring and pushing the limits - we'll let you decide.

Danger in cleaning off a car

2009-02-23T18:12:00.004-05:00

I can climb mountains but have problems when I dust off a car.
This past weekend was most interesting. I received my first broken bone. With all the adventures we have had in the past it is amazing that I haven't broken one before and the story of how it happened is almost embarassing. I was cleaning off the cars at the cottage preparing to go to cross country skiing near Parry Sound. I slipped on some ice, heard a crack, a pain that brought tears to my eyes and I was on the ground half way under the trailer. I knew I was in trouble and started yelling for Daniel to help me. He did not immediately respond to my call for aid since he was shovelling the back deck and singing to himself. My dog however did respond giving me lots of kisses while I wallowed around on the ground in the snow trying to hoist myself up. Daniel eventually came to my rescue and helped me crawl to the cottage. (my best option since Dan did not want to hurt his back and the snow boat looked like more pain than help) Once in the cottage, Adam came to my assistance and took me by snowmobile to Dan's parents' cottage where I could at least lie down in a lazy boy chair while the boys took the snowmobiles to do some work in the bush and pick up Laura and her friends. Six hours later, I was in Parry Sound hospital being x-rayed and Dan and Adam were outside trying to figure out how to get into the car that they locked the keys in. I am now home with an air cast on and a walker to help me get around the house. This is my sanctuary for at least a week according to the doctor who saw me in Parry Sound where I got the fastest medical treatment I have had in the past 10 years. Not being a very good patient, I will see how long I can survive at home.
Barbara

Beasts of Burden on Mt. Everest

2009-02-23T16:45:00.006-05:00

Laura and I are going to be doing a presentation on low oxygen levels at high altitudes and I thought I would share some of the information.
There are 3 Beasts of Burden on Mt. Everest.
1. JOKYO The Jokyo, also called Dzopko or Zuikos, is a yak/cow cross and carries supplies below 3500m. On our trip we saw lots of them below Namche Bazar. They are used instead of yaks at lower levels because yaks have thick skin with few functioning sweat glands and lots of hair; therefore, they overheat at lower hotter altitudes.
2. YAK The yak carries supplies above 3500m up to Base Camp at 5300m. At Base Camp there is 1/2 the amount of oxygen that there is at sea level. They are truly amazing animals with special phyiological adaptations. They have a large chest cavity which permits the development of large lungs and a large heart. Their trachea is longer and more flexible which allows the yak to adjust quickly to oxygen demands allowing them to breathe rapidly if necessary. It is believed that yaks' red blood cells have a greater ability for oxygen absorption but scientists are unsure why. Some believe they have larger red blood cells; thus, more hemoglobin for the oxygen to attach to. Others believe that their hemoglobin composition has a greater affinity to oxygen. Still others believe that when the animal is stressed its spleen releases large quantites of red blood cells. Male yaks have been known to survive as high as 7200m.
3. HUMAN PORTERS - both male and female. Porters are not Sherpas. Porters come from the low valleys and in the caste system that exists in Nepal they are considered at the bottom. They are very very poor and all that I met were illiterate. They have an extremely hard life. Other than when they pick up your bags in the morning and drop them off at the next teahouse you have very little contact with them. (My porter Dawa was the exception since he was told to stick to me like glue.) The government, better outfitters, and compassionate trekkers and climbers are trying very hard to ensure that porters are treated more fairly.

Lost some e-mail addresses

2008-09-04T11:28:00.001-04:00

Our computer let us down awhile ago and we lost some of the e-mail addresses of people who wished to be contacted regarding presentations. If you do not hear from us regarding the presentation on October 3, 2008 please resubmit your e-mail address and we will keep you posted regarding other presentations we may be doing. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Hear the stories

2008-09-04T11:21:00.002-04:00

We recently did a presentation at a seniors home that was extremely well received. One of the seniors commented that it was the best presentation she had ever been too. Another senior told us we were completely crazy but we already knew that!
We have combined forces with the Barrie Rotary clubs to do a presentation at Georgian College on October 3, 2008 at 7:00 p.m. All the family is coming home for this presentation and net proceeds go to Royal Victoria Hospital and Rotary House. Contact us at dan@malloryexpedition.com for more information or to reserve a seat. Hope to see you there!

Preparing to climb

2008-08-22T10:45:00.002-04:00

Many people ask us how we prepare for a climb like Mt. Everest. Our preparation is our lifestyle. We are all very active, always doing something. Injuries have slowed all of us down at various points in our lives but we all come back strong. We are all strong personalities and self confident. Although we do not always agree when it really matters we always support each other. Obviously climbing other mountains and learning certain techniques has also made us more prepared for climbs.

Mount Vinson

2008-08-22T10:27:00.002-04:00

We are beginning our research of Mt Vinson in Antarctica, the last of the 7 summits. We hope to do that mountain in January of 2010. It seems like a long way away but preparing for some of these hikes is like starting a small business. Hopefully our success on Mt. Everest will make fund raising easier and we will not have to take a 2nd mortgage out on our house. We now have most of the equipment.
Although Mt. Vinson is not as high as Everest the hike will be long since you start at just slightly above sea level. Everyone in the family will have to do some reading and make their own personal decision as to whether they want to come or not. Since the children are beginning to make their own lives (work, potential partners etc.) new parameters are coming into play.
Climbing Mt. Everest this year was a rushed decision. Most people take a year to plan and we only took 6 months. It also cost us money since many potential sponsors said they did not have enough time to set things up. We are glad we did it however since it may have been the only year all of us could have gone.

K2

2008-08-12T09:42:00.002-04:00

There are many things that are unpredictable when climbing a mountain. Sometimes you are just in the wrong place at the wrong time - we have no control over mother earth or nature. From the reading I have done, the deaths on K2 might have been prevented if the ropes had been fixed properly. The time taken to refix the ropes on the mountain delayed everyones' summit. However, the risk of an avalanche or a serac falling at any time exists on any high altitude mountain. Most climbers realize that if you climb long enough the mountain will eventually take you. I am sure these catastophes really make people wonder why people climb at all. I cannot answer that question.
I extend my thoughts and prayers to the families of the K2 climbers.

The Porter Hotel

2008-07-29T19:43:00.003-04:00

Adam and Alan decided to hike ahead of the family one day. They arrived late at the teahouses and they were all full so they had to stay in the porter hotel. They thought they were lucky because they had the room with a window. They were wrong. All the smoke from the cook stove drifted up and into their room, the beds and ceiling were too short, and there was no room for their backpacks. In the morning after a terrible night's sleep Adam reached over to open the door to get some fresh air and his bed collapsed. These are the kinds of things that make you thankful for small pleasures.

Mt. Everest update

2008-07-29T19:36:00.002-04:00

I just recently sent an update to our web designer and advisor Susanne. She will be updating the Mt. Everest section of Expeditions and adding some new pictures. I also plan on changing the homepage picture every few weeks. I am even awed by some of our pics. I just finished a photo album to show to friends and people who may be interested in having us speak to their group. Sorry we are taking so long to do everything but the presentations are not our main job. Once we get everything organized and get caught up with our normal life things will definitely progress more quickly.

Our First Presentations

2008-07-21T23:47:00.002-04:00

Alan has done two presentations to date. One for Toast Masters and one for the company he works for, Hatch in Mississauga.
Hatch really laid out the red carpet for us and we are very thankful for all their support. Alan did an excellent job talking about our adventure and showing a lot of our best pictures. Everyone had their own little story to tell (accompanied by pictures) at some point in the presentation so it was a family affair. Lots of good questions during the Q & A period after the presentation. They really made us feel like celebrities.
Dan did a presentation for extended family and friends at the cottage. The family always wants to hear all the details and see lots and lots of pictures so Dan's presentation was much longer than Alan's. We had an intermission with dessert half way through. The family was awed.
Presently, we are looking at potential dates and venues in the Barrie area. If we get a good response we will expand our area.
I will continue to keep this blog up to date. Ask questions and make suggestions. This is a learning experience for us.
We all strongly feel we have a wonderful story to tell.

Do we write a book?

2008-07-18T09:39:00.002-04:00

We have been approached by several people to write a book. There have been lots of books written about Mt. Everest and with the internet and modern communication you can certainly get lots of information about climbing and the mountain. So if we do write a book what do we write about and who writes it? Is the story about the adventure on Mt Everest? Is the story about the family and how we as a family came to climb Mt. Everest? Is the story about the heart stopping moments on each of the 6 mountains we have climbed? Who will write the book? One person? The family? A ghost writer? Do we want to open our lives to the public?
If anyone is still reading this blog we would like your opinion.

The Chinese again

2008-07-03T21:44:00.003-04:00

The Chinese have decided to restrict the number of people who can climb Everest on the Tibet side in the future. They have also strongly hinted that they will close the mountain for 2009 to remove the garbage.
In my opinion, the Chinese are trying to appear progressive and environmentally conscience but in reality they are really just trying to further their own political agenda. It is oddly coincidental that 2009 marks the 50 year anniversary of the Dalai Lama's forced exile from Tibet. Furthermore, China has not shown any concern for the environment to date. In Tibet, there is major deforestation, dumping of nuclear waste, and lots of mining going on (http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17375) - far greater environmental concerns than tourist garbage.
I have to ask myself the question who will be removing the garbage - the Tibetan sherpas?

Pollution on the mountain

2008-07-03T20:59:00.003-04:00

There definitely is a pollution problem on the mountain. They try to hide a lot of it from the tourists but we came across piles of empty plastic water bottles, tin cans, paper etc. The people that live in the country are the worst polluters. A lot of the people on the mountain are just trying to earn enough money to survive so the environment is not high on their priority list.
I think Nepal pays the sherpas $60.00 to bring down the old oxygen cylinders. Infact, our family was told to leave their empty cylinders behind. This is a way for the sherpas to earn extra money. Our outfitter encouraged people to use purification tablets or a water filter rather than buy bottled water.
In Nepal, the average yearly wage is $50.00 U.S. The developed countries are more environmentally conscience with their reuse, reduce and recycle programs but then they can afford to be. I am not making excuses for the tourists. There should be a pack in/pack out policy and maybe Nepal will adapt that in the near future or at the very least a garbage fee with the money paid to porters to bring the garbage off the mountain. The problem is what do they do with it once it is off the mountain?

What is Success?

2008-06-19T08:03:00.003-04:00

This is a favourite story that Dan likes to tell.
When hiking up Mt. Aconcagua Dan & Adam met a man hiking down and Dan asked him if he had been successful. The man replied that that depended on how you viewed success. He had spent 5 days in a blizaard at high camp with very little food or fuel to melt water. He had survived and was hiking down the mountain. Was he successful?

What's at the summit?

2008-06-18T12:07:00.003-04:00

The summit is a small space, a rectangle about 2 meters by 7 meters, with sharp drop offs on three sides and a steep area leading from the Hillary Step to the summit. There is a Buddha statue at the top drapped in prayer flags and other momentos from climbers.

Media coverage

2008-06-13T18:27:00.002-04:00

There has been a lot of media coverage of the family adventure. Susanne our web designer from efx wizzard is posting some of our media interviews on the website under MEDIA. Check the dates for the most recent coverages.
We have been interviewed by A Channel, CTV Canada AM, CBC Newsworld, and several radio stations.

Grocery bills soar

2008-06-13T18:13:00.002-04:00

Everyone has been eating constantly since arriving home and sleeping a lot. I go shopping every other day to keep the fridge filled with fresh fruit and vegetables something there was very little of on the mountain. Meat is also something they crave. Dan wanted a Wendy's double burger when he got off the plane. Since all the Wendy's were closed when we reached Barrie he had to settle for a friend's homemade pies delivered to the house as a treat for the returning mountaineers.
The family all lost weight. Since none of them had a lot of fat on them in the first place a lot of the weight was muscle. Adam lost almost 35 pounds (17.5 kg). His clothes are quite loose. It will take a long time for their bodies to fully recover.

Everest Moments

2008-06-11T11:21:00.003-04:00

We are home safe and sound and doing a number of media interviews. Normal life will have to return shortly.
We were asked about the "scarier" moments of the trip. There were several - the crossing of the horizontal ladders as many and 4 sections lashed together over gaping crevasses; Laura throwing up blood at around 20,000 ft; Laura and I watching boulders whip by us while climbing the very steep Llotse face; the safety rope breaking at camp 3 where a slip would send you off the Llotse face. All these made your heart stop for a second but clearly not hearing from Laura and her Sherpa on their summit attempt day by 9 am the next morning, that was my worst day! We tiried to reach them all day by radio and no word until mid afternoon. If there had been a fall or some other injury or incident, a rescue attempt would have been almost imposible. No planes or helicpoters would have been able to make the rescue and it is utterly exhausting to be navigating at the altitude between 26,000-29,000 ft. I/we could not have gone back up to look for her or even assist in any way. Even if we had the strength which we did not, we needed to find oxygen and it was not readily available. It was a big relief when we heard from them mid afternoon and learned of their inability to communicate because of radio battery problems.
Dan

Mallorys home Monday night

2008-06-08T18:13:00.002-04:00

Dan just called from Hong Kong. The family will be arriving home Monday June 9, 2008 at 9:55 p.m. on Cathay Pacific flight CX828. It seems to me as if they have been away forever. It will be great to have everyone home safe and sound, to see all the pictures and hear all the stories.
Thanks to everyone for their ongoing support.

What's Next?

2008-06-06T17:26:00.003-04:00

Several people have asked "What's next?" Dan still has one more mountain to conquer with someone in the family The Vinson Massif in Antarctica.
In the immediate future. Team Mallory have been asked to do some media interviews. They also plan on doing some speaking engagements so check the blog ocassionally to see if there is going to be a presentation near where you live. Adam and Laura still have some university exams to write. Dan and Alan have to return to work. Barbara has to heal.
No news of the flight home yet. I will keep you posted.

Safely off the Mountain

2008-06-03T02:20:00.004-04:00

As a summary, Dan, Adam, and Alan Mallory reached the summit of Everest at 8:15 a.m. on May 26/08 and descended arriving at high camp (South Col-camp 4), very tired at about 2:30 p.m. Laura left at 7 p.m. that afternoon and summited May 27 at about 9:30 a.m. Dan, Adam, and Alan descended the Mountain to Camp 2 on May 27 and expected to hear from Laura or her Sherpa on her progress on May 27. Nobody heard from them or could communicate with them until they summited and arrived back at high camp at about 3:30 p.m. May 27. Many at base camp were praying and lighting incense and burning juniper for their safe return. We were quite worried - we did not realize that their batteries were not functioning in their two radios.
We all were joined together at base camp on May 29.
On May 30, we descended from base camp to Lukla in 3 days which would normally take 9 or 10 days to ascend from Lukla to base camp but we were extremely acclimatized. We were completely exhausted when we reached Lukla.
On June 2 we flew from Lukla to Kathmandu where we are staying at the Annapurna hotel and enjoying some well deserved pampering of good food, a soft bed, and warm weather. We are on a waiting list for an early flight home around May 8 but if not available we will be leaving on June 13 according to our current tickets.
We have many fantastic digital photos and video of the climbing experience which we will put together for presentations on our return for groups or organizations that are interested. Interested groups can email us according to our web site. Looking forward to seeing everyone on our return.

Dan

Food

2008-06-02T20:43:00.003-04:00

Food on the mountain is adequate but not terribly exciting. All the menus in the teahouses are the same - eggs, potatoes, rice, pasta, pizza, yak steaks, milk tea, hot tang, bottled water, some herbal teas, pop, popcorn, chocolate bars, white bread. Lots of yak cheese which they put on everything. There are some fresh vegetables near the base of the mountain but higher up vegetables are canned. Everything is cooked over a wood/yak dung cookstove. I had good yak steak and yak steak that was worse than shoe leather. One day, as a treat we got little cocktail hot dogs and spam. When camping we had the above plus chicken, hot chocolate, jam, cookies and canned fruit. Everything has to be carried up on someone's back, there are no refrigerators and cows are sacred to the Hindus. There were lots of no meat days. Considering what they have available to them they do a good job.
They tell you to bring your own snacks and freeze dried food. I took over a bag weighing over 20 kilos just with snack food in it for the family. Snack food included nuts, granola bars, power bars, chocolate bars, canned tuna and chicken, sesame seed bars, mints, dried fruit, fruit jube jubes, beef jerky and power gel.
Altitude suppresses you appetite, you often feel sick to your stomach and you get tired of the same food all the time so you have to force yourself to eat. You are using up a lot of energy hiking and at higher altitudes breathing and surviving. Most people take a diuretic to help them acclimatize. It is natural to lose weight but it is not a weight loss program I would recommend.
After being on the mountain for awhile you really crave things like fresh fruit and vegetables, a hamburger, steak. There is a lot more variety in Kathmandu but again you never eat anything in a third world country unless it is well cooked, you bought and washed it yourself with safe water, or it is a high class restaurant you trust.
When everyone arrives home I can't imagine my grocery bill.

Family back in Kathmandu

2008-06-02T08:34:00.003-04:00

Dan called today to say they arrived safely in Kathmandu. They are all very tired and very thin. They have to wait to get a flight home so they will be resting and eating and healing for the next few days.

Mallory Family in Base Camp

2008-05-31T10:49:00.004-04:00

Picture taken by Dan Mazur of Summit Climb

Everyone is safe

2008-05-30T19:16:00.003-04:00

The family is at base camp or hiking down from base camp. They should be in Lukla in the next few days. Then back to Kathmandu where Dan and the family will try and get an early flight home. I can hardly wait to see them, hold them and hear all the stories.
Mike is safely down at base camp. He was the last person in the Summit Climb group to try for the summit. He successfully reached the summit before running into difficulty.
A huge thanks to Summit Climb staff for keeping everyone safe. You are awesome!!

Video Coverage of the Summit

2008-05-30T11:56:00.002-04:00

Message From Team Mallory

2008-05-30T11:20:00.005-04:00

To climb the highest mountain in the world at 29,029 ft. (8848 meters) requires tremendous mental and physical effort. Only the most dedicated climbers in the world attempt it.

On May 26, 2008, Dan Mallory and sons Adam age 25, Alan age 23, and on May 27, daughter Laura age 20, were successful in reaching the top of Mt. Everest, the world's highest mountain. Laura is now Canada's youngest female summiter and, with her father and brothers, part of a family of 4 to reach the summit.

Adam, Alan, and Dan left high camp on the South Col at 8:30 pm in a strong cold wind to begin the final ascent traveling all night by headlamp reaching the summit at 8:15 am the following morning. After resting an extra day at Camp 4, Laura left for her summit climb at 7:00 pm similarly climbing all night to summit the following morning at 9:00 am.

The challenges are extreme, the risks are great, but the rewards on the top looking over the world are beyond words. We are looking forward to our return home to family and friends.

Dan, Adam, Alan, Laura

Europcopter

2008-05-29T20:13:00.004-04:00

I was going to publish in the last blog that helicopter rescue above Base Camp had only occurred once but I thought I should check the internet first. The following is from GreatOutdoors.com June 2005.
http://www.greatoutdoors.com/published/helicopter-on-everest-makes-history#comment-137
Heretofore, the summit of Everest was utterly out of reach for helicopters. In fact, just landing at base camp, 10,000 feet lower, was considered a life endangering feat. Several attempts resulted in crashes. KC Madan, a Nepalese military pilot , became a hero when he landed his machine at Camp II to rescue Beck Weathers and Makalu Gau after the 1996 tragedy. Now, pilot Didier Delsalle has landed on the summit, where he remained for two minutes.
I was absolutely amazed.

Death Zone

2008-05-29T19:53:00.001-04:00

The area at Camp 4 (approximately 8000 m or 26, 000 ft.) and above is known as the Death Zone. At this altitude the human body loses its ability to acclimatize and the body’s cells slowly deteriorate and die. The longer a person stays at this altitude the more likely high altitude cerebral or pulmonary edema or death will occur. Frostbite of exposed body parts is common. Both body and mind are in slow motion. High winds and slippery icy slopes add to the danger. At the summit, there is two thirds less oxygen than at sea level.

Mike

2008-05-29T19:48:00.002-04:00

Summit news reports that 5 sherpas are helping Mike descend down the Lhotse face to camp 2.

Snow blind

2008-05-28T21:28:00.006-04:00

Mike Browder, the leader-in -training, for Summit Climb on this Expedition headed for the summit last night and became snow blind at the South Summit. Sherpas are doing their best to bring him down safely. Things can happen quickly on the mountain. This is a very dangerous situation.
I spent several days with Mike in Kathmandu. He helped me with my shopping for the climb and entertained me at dinner. The rest of the family will have spent time with him in Base Camp. He is an experienced climber who leads climbing expeditions in the Alps. I am so thankful my family had a safe summit. Please add Mike and the rescue Sherpas to your prayers.