Politics, Sickness and Mountain Climbing

Our 3 biggest obstacles to summiting are as above in that order. When we arrived at Base Camp, all cameras and satellite phones were prohibited. The Nepalese army was at the entrance to Base Camp checking people entering and exiting. A Chinese general came in by helicopter to check out the situation. A surveillance plane was circling the summit of Everest recently to make sure there were no unwanted climbers in the area. All climbers were to be off the mountain by April 30, 2008 and we would optimistically be able to go up from Base Camp on May the 6th at the earliest and possibly not until May the 10th, 2008 or later. Also, the Nepalese army were to be looking in all the tents today for satellite phones or video cameras or articles favoring Tibet. All this to safeguard the televising of the Chinese Everest climbers who are climbing to the top of Everest on the north (Tibetan) side and they do not want any interference with the Olympic torch relay or any attention drawn to the ‘Free Tibet’ issue. The delay could cost us the narrow window of opportunity for us to make a summit attempt.
It is very difficult to manage disease/sickness at elevation. Most everyone is getting, has, or is recovering from a viral chest infection. Dan has had it and has it. Alan is nearing the end of his sickness. Laura is dealing with the “Khumbu” cough which is widespread. It is easy to get an eye infection which a few have including Dan but he can use sunglasses with a prescription insert (Thanks Doug!) during recovery. A couple of the others are dealing with gastroenteritis with Imodium to the rescue. The immune system is weakened with extreme exertion and high elevations but just another challenge to overcome.
Now the real reason we are here. We did a few acclimatization hikes up about 1000ft. higher on nearby mountains. On Monday April 28, 2008 we were up at 4:30 a.m. with a fresh snowfall and set off after breakfast at 6:15 a.m. from Base Camp at 17300ft. to 19380ft. camp 1 at the top of the infamous Khumbu Icefall. After crossing about 50 ladders strung across bottomless crevasses, carefully placing your crampons on the ladder rungs so they didn’t slip and after 8 hours of this with full packs to leave gear at camp 1, we arrived. Some of the ladders are up to four ladders strung together and vertical to get up and over a serac (a wall of ice). Keep in mind that this icefall is in motion each day!
In 2005, camp 1 comprising 60 tents, was all swept away by an avalanche. Every day and night you can hear and sometimes see these avalanches. They moved camp 1 higher to a hopefully safer location.
The next day, we went to camp 2 (elevation 20500ft.), crossing a few more ladders and returned to camp 1 quite tired. On Wednesday April 30, we descended back down through the icefall, reaching Base Camp after about 5 hours, relieved to be back safe but completely spent.
Since no one can go up for 6 to 10 days we have descended to the “village” of Dingboche at 14300ft. to hopefully rest and get completely healthy before we go back up for our push to camp 3 then back to Base Camp for our summit push after 4 or 5 rest days.
All is well. This internet site is the highest internet café in the world so when we get back up, communication is difficult.

Dan